2026 rating data

Homeowners insurance, priced properly

Two numbers matter and most homeowners know neither: what your policy should insure your home for, and what that coverage ought to cost. This calculator estimates both, and shows how roof age, deductible and your state move the premium.

No quote form, no calls Full coverage schedule Nothing leaves your browser

Homeowners Insurance Calculator

Total finished living space, all floors.
Catastrophe exposure is the single biggest driver of price.
Sets rebuild cost per sq ft.
Over 20 years, many carriers move the roof to depreciated value or decline to renew.
Used for rating in most states. California, Maryland and Massachusetts restrict or ban it.
Estimated annual premium
$1,900$2,800

About $158–$233 a month · Dwelling coverage $390,000

Base catastrophe & property rate
Roof age loading
Claims & insurance score
Endorsements

Coverage schedule this implies

Planning estimate only. Not a quote, binder or offer of insurance. See how we calculate this.

The short answer

The average US homeowners policy costs about $2,300 to $2,600 a year for roughly $300,000 of dwelling coverage. But the national average is nearly useless as a benchmark: Florida and Louisiana homeowners routinely pay three to four times what a Vermont or Delaware homeowner pays for the same house. After state, the three levers that move your premium most are roof age, deductible and claims history.

Last reviewed · Methodology

Coverage A: the number everyone gets wrong

Coverage A is your dwelling limit — the maximum the policy will pay to rebuild the structure. Getting it wrong is the most expensive mistake in home insurance, and it is made in both directions.

Coverage A is not your home's market value. Market value includes the land, the location, the school district and whatever the market is currently willing to pay. None of that is destroyed in a fire. Coverage A is the cost to rebuild the physical structure from the foundation up, at today's labor and material prices, on a lot that already exists.

In expensive metros this means the correct Coverage A is often far below market value — a $1.4 million bungalow in a coastal city might rebuild for $500,000, and insuring it for $1.4 million is money set on fire every year. In older, rural or high-construction-cost markets the opposite is true: a house that would sell for $180,000 may cost $320,000 to rebuild, and a homeowner insuring to market value is catastrophically underinsured without knowing it.

The 80% coinsurance trap

Most policies contain a coinsurance clause requiring you to carry at least 80% of full replacement cost. Fall below it and the insurer does not simply cap your payout — it reduces every claim proportionally, including small ones. Insured at 60% of what you should be, a $40,000 kitchen fire may be settled at roughly $30,000 minus your deductible. This penalty applies to partial losses, which is the overwhelming majority of claims, so it bites far more often than a total loss ever would.

Because construction costs have moved sharply in recent years, a Coverage A figure set when you bought the house five years ago is very likely too low today, even with the automatic inflation guard most carriers apply. This is worth checking annually.

What the rest of the schedule means

Nearly every coverage in an HO-3 policy is derived from Coverage A as a percentage, which is why getting A right fixes several other numbers at once.

Standard homeowners policy coverage schedule
CoverageWhat it pays forTypical limit
A — DwellingThe house itself and attached structures100% of rebuild cost
B — Other structuresDetached garage, fence, shed, pool house10% of A
C — Personal propertyContents: furniture, clothing, electronics50–70% of A
D — Loss of useHotel, meals and rent while the home is unlivable20–30% of A
E — Personal liabilityInjury or damage you are legally responsible for$300k–$500k
F — Medical paymentsMinor guest injuries, no fault required$1k–$5k

Two of these deserve a second look. Coverage C defaults to a percentage, but that percentage is a guess about your life. Inventory a single room honestly and most people find the default is low. And Coverage E is the cheapest protection in the entire policy — raising liability from $300,000 to $500,000 often costs $20 to $40 a year, which is close to free for the exposure it removes. If you have meaningful assets, an umbrella policy layered on top is cheaper still per dollar of protection.

Replacement cost vs. actual cash value

This distinction decides how much money you actually receive, and it is buried in the declarations page rather than announced.

  • Replacement cost value (RCV) pays what it costs to replace the damaged property today, with no deduction for age or wear.
  • Actual cash value (ACV) pays replacement cost minus depreciation.

On a roof the gap is brutal. Take an $18,000 asphalt roof with a 25-year expected life, damaged at year 15. Under RCV you are paid $18,000 less your deductible. Under ACV you are paid roughly 40% of that — about $7,200 less your deductible — and you fund the remaining $10,800 yourself.

Critically, a policy can be RCV on the dwelling and ACV on the roof. Carriers increasingly apply a roof-specific ACV schedule or a "roof surfaces payment schedule" endorsement once a roof passes a certain age, and they are not required to draw your attention to it. Find the roof settlement basis on your declarations page and know it before a storm, not after. Our hail damage claim estimator models both outcomes side by side.

Why insurers are obsessed with your roof

Roof claims are the largest single source of homeowners losses in most of the country. The industry's response over the past decade has been steady and one-directional:

  • Surcharges begin around year 15 in most rating plans.
  • Between 15 and 20 years, many carriers switch roof settlement from RCV to ACV.
  • Past 20 years, a growing number of carriers will not write a new policy at all, and some non-renew existing ones.
  • In hail states, impact-rated Class 4 shingles earn a meaningful discount — often 10 to 30 percent of the wind/hail portion of the premium.

The practical consequence is that an aging roof is not merely a maintenance item, it is an insurability problem. If your roof is approaching 20 years, replacing it before renewal can be cheaper in total than absorbing the surcharge, the ACV downgrade and the risk of having to find a new carrier from a weak position. Run the numbers with our roof replacement cost calculator before you decide.

Deductible math

Raising your deductible is the most reliable lever you control. Typical premium effects:

Effect of deductible on premium
DeductiblePremium effectOn a $2,400 premium
$500+12%$2,688
$1,000baseline$2,400
$2,500−12%$2,112
$5,000−21%$1,896

Going from $1,000 to $2,500 saves $288 a year while adding $1,500 of exposure — you break even in a little over five years even if you claim immediately, and far sooner in reality because most people do not claim at all in a five-year window. The second, larger benefit is behavioural: a high deductible removes the temptation to file the small claim that gets you surcharged or non-renewed.

Percentage deductibles are not what they look like

In hail and hurricane states, wind and hail losses often carry a separate percentage deductible calculated on Coverage A, not a flat amount. A 2% wind deductible on a $450,000 dwelling limit is $9,000. Homeowners routinely discover this for the first time while standing under a damaged roof. Check whether you have a separate wind/hail or named-storm deductible, and what percentage it is, today.

What else moves your premium

  • Location, at street level. Distance to a fire hydrant and to a staffed fire station, the ISO protection class of your district, wildfire and flood scoring, and even the loss history of your specific ZIP code all feed the rate.
  • Insurance credit score. Used in most states and heavily weighted. California, Maryland and Massachusetts restrict or prohibit it. The gap between excellent and poor tiers can exceed 60 percent of premium.
  • Claims history — yours and the house's. Prior claims attach to the property in the CLUE database for seven years and transfer to you when you buy it.
  • Systems age. Electrical panel type, knob-and-tube or aluminium wiring, polybutylene plumbing, and water heater age all affect eligibility, not just price. Some panel brands are effectively uninsurable.
  • Attractive nuisances. Pools without a compliant fence, trampolines, and certain dog breeds raise liability rates or trigger exclusions outright.
  • Occupancy. Rentals, short-term lets and homes vacant beyond 30 to 60 days often fall outside a standard policy's terms entirely.

Twelve ways to pay less

  1. Raise your deductible to the highest figure you could write a cheque for tomorrow.
  2. Bundle home and auto — typically 10 to 25 percent off.
  3. Shop the entire market every two years. Loyalty is priced against you at most carriers.
  4. Ask for every discount by name: claims-free, new roof, new purchase, paid-in-full, paperless, autopay, retiree, professional association.
  5. Improve your insurance credit score.
  6. Install monitored fire and burglar alarms and, above all, water leak detection — water is the most common non-weather claim.
  7. In hail country, specify impact-rated Class 4 shingles at your next roof replacement.
  8. Correct an inflated Coverage A. Many policies drift above true rebuild cost through years of automatic inflation guard.
  9. Remove or fence attractive nuisances.
  10. Stop filing small claims. Self-fund anything near your deductible.
  11. Upgrade an old electrical panel or aging plumbing before renewal.
  12. Buy liability limits generously and everything else precisely — liability is the cheapest coverage per dollar in the policy.

Frequently asked questions

How much is homeowners insurance per year?

The US average is roughly $2,300 to $2,600 a year for about $300,000 of dwelling coverage, but the spread between states is enormous. Florida, Louisiana, Oklahoma, Texas and Colorado routinely run two to four times the national average because of hurricane, hail and wildfire exposure, while Vermont, New Hampshire, Delaware and much of the Pacific Northwest sit well below it.

Should my dwelling coverage equal my home's market value?

No, and this is the most common and most expensive misunderstanding in home insurance. Coverage A should equal the cost to rebuild your home from the foundation up at today's prices. Market value includes your land, location and school district, none of which burn down. In hot markets rebuild cost is often far below market value; in older or rural markets it can be well above it.

Why does my roof's age affect my premium so much?

Roof claims are the single largest source of homeowners losses in most states, so insurers price roof age aggressively. Many carriers surcharge roofs over 15 years, switch them from replacement cost to depreciated actual cash value at 15 to 20 years, and decline to write or renew a policy on a roof over 20 years old.

Is a higher deductible worth it?

Usually yes, if you can absorb it. Moving from a $1,000 to a $2,500 deductible typically cuts premium by 10 to 15 percent, and you break even within a few years even if you claim. The larger benefit is behavioural: it stops you filing the small claims that get policies non-renewed.

What is the difference between replacement cost and actual cash value?

Replacement cost pays what it costs to replace the property today with no deduction for age. Actual cash value subtracts depreciation, so a 15-year-old roof with a 25-year life may be paid at roughly 40 percent of replacement cost. On an $18,000 roof that is over $10,000 out of pocket. Check which basis applies to the roof specifically, not just the dwelling.

Does filing a claim raise my rate?

Almost always. A single claim commonly raises a premium by around 20 percent for three to five years, and two claims in five years can make you difficult to place with standard carriers at any price. Claims stay on the CLUE database for seven years and follow you to other insurers.

What is a wind and hail deductible?

In hail and hurricane states, many policies apply a separate, higher deductible to wind and hail losses, expressed as a percentage of Coverage A rather than a flat dollar amount. A 2 percent wind deductible on a $400,000 dwelling limit is $8,000, not $1,000.

How can I lower my homeowners insurance premium?

Raise your deductible, bundle home and auto, ask for every discount by name, improve your insurance credit score, install monitored alarm and water leak detection, replace an aging roof with an impact-rated product where hail is common, and shop the whole market every two years.

Related calculators